Hi Everyone,
You may know of Michael Cruse’s Ultramarine “Heintz Vineyard” Blanc de Blancs as California’s first cult sparkling wine. To this day it remains (by far) the most noteworthy example in the category produced in the United States each year, continues to be extremely difficult to source, and with a $200+ per bottle price tag in most retail situations, it remains out of reach for most in terms of price.
Imagine the shock/confusion/delight spanning across my face when a sample bottle of today’s wine showed in the mail, addressed from “Bryan Stanojev,” a new member of the team.
…the front label reads Heintz Vineyard.
…the back label reads Michael Cruse as winemaker.
…the vintage is 2013.
…the physical bottle was that same iconic/curved one that we associate with “Ultramarine”
…the post-it note on the bottle reads “Michael recently disgorged this after nine years on the lees.”
HUH?!?
Is this some sort of dream? Nothing happens when I pinch myself, so out comes the phone – It is time to call Bryan.
“What the hell is this?” I asked, “there is only one Michael Cruse Ultramarine ‘Heintz Vineyard.'”
Oh, Bryan casually explains, “Michael Cruse makes Ultramarine ‘Heintz Vineyard’ from the second pressing, preferring the character of that fraction to the first and third pressings….but the first and third pressings are also pretty great.”
“So this is from….” I ask.
“…yes this is from Michael’s first and third pressings, since he is only using the second pressing for Ultramarine” Bryan continues, “he makes the wine for my friend Charlie Heintz who grows Michael’s grapes, and always one to push boundaries, we suppose Michael kept this gem in tirage for the last nine years as an experiment as to how far the boundaries could be pushed.”
Pop goes the cork.
Wow.
Out of the glass leaps everything you expect and then some. Golden color, honey, apple, and toasty filbert on the nose, followed by layer after layer of flavor (think custard, brioche, pear, baking spice, yuzu, I can go on and on…), with tremendous liveliness and energy (especially notable given the eleven-year-age!) on what one can describe as a perfect-texture palate. The trademark firm acidity that Cruse is celebrated for holds all components together in what is one of the most compelling sparkling wines I’ve tasted in a very, very long time…
What else needs to be said?
Nothing!
Thank you Charlie, Michael, and Bryan for a most remarkable offering today on one of the greatest, most delicious, and unmistakably unique sparkling wines ever made in the United States!
Happy 4th of July!
In-store pick up will be available for all requests on July 3rd.